Cangas de Onis - Guide

The Town

Cangas de Onís, a municipality in the eastern part of Asturias, Spain, is steeped in history and natural beauty. Known for its Roman Bridge over the Sella River, a symbol of the town's rich heritage, Cangas de Onís was the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias. This historic town is not only famous for its past but also for its picturesque setting within the Picos de Europa National Park, offering a blend of cultural and outdoor activities.

The town's economy thrives on agriculture, cattle rearing, and rural tourism, with the nearby Covadonga Sanctuary being a significant tourist attraction. The municipality is divided into eleven parishes, each with its unique charm and history. The parish of Cangas de Onís, which is also the capital, is particularly notable for its size and population density, providing a glimpse into the region's demographic structure.

With a variety of vegetation due to its varied elevation, Cangas de Onís boasts a rich biodiversity that includes mountain shrubs, heather, and various species of oak, beech, and ash trees. The town's history dates back to the battle of Covadonga around 722, marking the beginning of the Reconquista, and it is home to the first church constructed in post-conquest Iberia, Santa Cruz de Cangas de Onís, built on an ancient dolmen.

The town's development as a pilgrimage site in the 16th century and its rapid growth in the mid-19th century are testaments to its enduring significance. Today, Cangas de Onís continues to be a hub of cultural and historical importance, attracting visitors from around the world who are eager to explore its ancient streets, historical landmarks, and natural wonders.

The Roman Bridge in Cangas de Onís, despite its name, is not a relic of the Roman era but a medieval construction, believed to have been built during the reign of Alfonso XI of Castile in the 13th century. This bridge, also known as "Puente Vieyu" or "Puentón," is an emblematic symbol of the Principality of Asturias and stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the Middle Ages. Its design, featuring three arches with the central one being significantly larger and cambered, reflects the transition from Romanesque to Gothic style. The smaller side arches are of different sizes, adding to the bridge's unique aesthetic.

A significant feature of the bridge is the reproduction of the Victory Cross, a precious metalwork from the early 10th century, which hangs from the central arch and is kept in Oviedo Cathedral. This cross is a powerful symbol of the Asturian monarchy and the Christian Reconquista, marking the historical significance of the bridge beyond its architectural beauty.

The bridge's location over the Sella River not only provided a vital crossing point but also contributed to the development of Cangas de Onís as a significant settlement and the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias. Today, the bridge continues to attract visitors, drawing them into the rich tapestry of Asturian history and culture, and serves as a picturesque backdrop that complements the natural beauty of the surrounding landscapes.

Covadonga

Covadonga, known in Asturian as Cuadonga, is a parish in the municipality of Cangas de Onís within the province and autonomous community of Asturias, in northwestern Spain. This area, rich in history and natural beauty, is nestled in the Picos de Europa mountains and is renowned for its significant cultural and religious heritage. Covadonga is famously associated with the Battle of Covadonga, which took place around 722 AD and is considered the starting point of the Reconquista, the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula from Muslim rule. The victory of the Christian forces led by Pelagius, who would become the first monarch of the Kingdom of Asturias, marked the beginning of the end for the Umayyad conquest of Hispania.

The Sanctuary of Covadonga, a complex that includes the Basilica of Santa María la Real de Covadonga, the Holy Cave of Covadonga, and several other religious and historical buildings, commemorates this pivotal battle and is a pilgrimage site dedicated to Our Lady of Covadonga. The basilica, a striking example of 19th-century neo-Romanesque architecture, was designed by Roberto Frassinelli and is a focal point for visitors.

The Holy Cave, where the remains of Pelagius and Alfonso I are interred, adds to the spiritual significance of the site. Covadonga also serves as the gateway to the Picos de Europa National Park, offering breathtaking landscapes and the famous lakes of Covadonga, Enol and Ercina, which have been featured in the Vuelta a España bicycle race. The area's blend of historical resonance and natural splendor continues to attract visitors from around the world, making it a symbol of Asturian identity and Spanish.

The Lakes

Lake Enol, situated in the stunning Picos de Europa National Park in Asturias, Spain, is a glacial lake that offers breathtaking views and a serene atmosphere. This lake, along with its companion Lake Ercina, forms the famous Lakes of Covadonga, known for their crystal-clear waters and the surrounding dramatic mountain landscapes. Lake Enol, the larger of the two, lies at an elevation of 1,070 meters above sea level and covers an area of approximately 0.1 square kilometers. It's a popular destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts who are drawn to its emerald-green waters, which can appear darker in summer than in winter due to the depth allowing for thermal stratification. The lake is also a site of cultural significance; every year on September 8th, a submerged image of the Virgin Mary is raised from the depths and carried in a procession during the Fiesta del Pastor, which is celebrated with regional dancing on July 25th. The area is rich in biodiversity, with various species of fish like tench, trout, and crayfish inhabiting the lake, contributing to the ecological diversity of this Asturian treasure.

Hiking in Picos de Europa

For those looking to explore the natural beauty of Cangas de Onís through hiking, there are several trails that come highly recommended. The Cares Route, known for its breathtaking views and challenging terrain, is a favorite among seasoned hikers. This trail takes you through the heart of the Picos de Europa and offers a unique opportunity to experience the region's stunning landscapes.

Another popular trail is the Route of the Beyu Pen, which combines both natural beauty and cultural heritage, leading hikers past ancient hermitages and through enchanted forests. For a more serene experience, the Dobra River trail provides a peaceful hike along the river, suitable for all skill levels and perfect for a family outing.

The Lakes of Covadonga trail is another must-visit, offering picturesque views of the glacial lakes and the surrounding mountains. It's an ideal spot for photographers and nature lovers alike. The Path of the Archdeacon, steeped in history, takes you on a journey through time as you walk along paths once traveled by religious figures of the past.

Mountaineers looking for a challenge might tackle the Ruta de La Reconquista, which is the longest trail in the area and has the most elevation gain, providing a rigorous workout and rewarding views. The trail of La Vueltona offers a similarly strenuous hike with significant elevation, leading to the Refugio Vega de Enol, a cozy mountain refuge where hikers can rest. For those interested in the local flora and fauna, the trail to the Cruz de Priena is a great choice, as it's known for its wildflowers and wildlife.

 The Pico Gustureru trail is another option that offers a chance to encounter the diverse ecosystems of the region. And for a unique geological experience, the Cueto Cuaceya Fountain Heads trail will lead you through fascinating rock formations. Each of these trails offers a different perspective of Cangas de Onís, from its rich history and culture to its stunning natural landscapes. Whether you're looking for a leisurely walk or a challenging hike, there's a trail that fits the bill. Before embarking on any of these trails, it's advisable to check the latest conditions and prepare adequately for the journey ahead. The local tourism office can provide maps, guides, and additional information to ensure a safe and enjoyable hiking experience.